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After an amazing couple of days in Iguazu, it was time to head back to Buenos Aires for a night before catching an early flight to Bogota, Colombia….Located high in the Andes at 8646 ft above sea level, Bogota is the capital of Colombia and it’s largest financial center. Most companies in Colombia have their headquarters in Bogota and it is home to most foreign companies doing business in Colombia as well as Colombia’s main stock market. It’s population is approximately 8,000,000. Bogota, or Colombia for that matter has a reputation as being a relatively dangerous place with kidnappings. bombings and gunfights being regular occurrence…in the past this may have been true, but now a days, the government has “cleaned up” it’s major cities and tourist areas and it has become as safe as any other large South American city….You should still be on your guard, as you should be as a tourist in any big city, but safety concerns should not dominate your thoughts in such a fun city where people are, on the whole, very nice and willing to help.
We were staying in the north part of the city which is mainly the upper middle and affluent area with designer malls, world class restaurants and more bar/nightclubs you could shake a stick at. Walking around this neighbourhood, I felt totally safe and didn’t have any worries about roaming about…havin said this, you could still “feel” the past as there was security everywhere and the odd soldier with automatic weapons hanging around…
We did the usual tours in the city center with the government buildings, churches and squares…not too much different from any other major South American city, but we still had to see it…also went to the top of Monsurrate which is a mountain that dominates the center of Bogota 10,000 ft above sea level with beautiful views of the city…
Milling around the city center....
Pigeon Square....actually just the central square with ALOT of birds!!!
Another Cathedral on the main square....these south americans love their churches!!!
There is a lot of gold mining in Colombia and one of the major attractions in Bogota is the Gold Museum...It is spread over several floors and contains an extraordinary selection of pre-Hispanic gold work....to tell you the truth, I expected a lot more gold...
View of the city atop Monsurrate.....the city just goes on and on.....
10,000 ft above sea level....
About 1hr outside of the city is a town called Zipaquira and in Zipaquira is something called the Salt Cathedral…this place is amazing and is just as the name says, a Cathedral built into and old underground salt mine more than 600ft below the surface…it was incredible and definite one of the highlights of the whole trip!!
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A climbing platform outside the Salt Cathedral...doesn't seem to make sense, but hey, why not???
Entrance into the mountain and the Salt Cathedral...
Salt "fall" in one of the chambers of the Cathedral...
"sculptures" carved into the walls of the mine....all of salt...
One of the salt chambers deep underground....
The next few days were spent exploring the rest of the city and soaking up the Colombian culture…as was mentioned earlier, Bogota seem like an entertainment city with its numerous restaurants and bars….if you’re looking for a party, Bogota is definitely a place to visit!!
So that’s it!!! 30 days has gone past and I think it’s time to make my way back to Vancouver…It has been one of those “once in a lifetime” trips with only one regret….I didn’t get to see Brazil!!! Oh well, that just gives me another excuse to come back (maybe on my motorcycle!!) and spend 30 days just in Brazil…..Ok, time to hop on a plane back and see if I can plan a trip on “two wheels” this time……
Although in previous posts I mentioned that riding the bus to destinations wasn’t that bad and almost comfortable, it still doesn’t beat the time savings of air travel!! So instead of hopping on a bus for 16hrs, we taxied to the airport and caught a 1:50 hr flight to Puerto Iguazu….we arrived in the afternoon and the weather was the best we have had since leaving Vancouver the beginning of October… 30 C and sunny!!!
Iguazu Falls is undoubtedly the most visited place in Misiones and one of the most imposing natural attractions in Argentina. In guarani language, the term “Iguazu” means “great waters”. It was discovered in 1541 by Alvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca. Situated in Iguazu National Park, some 20 km. from Puerto Iguazu in the north of the province, these falls are shared by Brazil and Argentina. Iguazu river is born in Parana state in Brazil, and after crossing 1,200 km. on a plateau, it reaches a fault forming a crack in the layers of sandstone and basalt where the river runs. The Falls can be experienced from either Brazil or Argentina as the Falls are split by the bordering two countries…Due to visa requirements for Canadians in Brazil, we could only stay on the Argentinean side…Some have said that if you were just travelling for the day to Brazil, a visa was not needed, you could just hire a taxi or bus and take the 30 minute drive across the border with no Brazilian immigration in sight…Unfortunately, this is technically not true and the fine, if caught, can be as high as $5000 US…Although many have done this, I just didn’t think the risk was worth it and the Argentinean side looked much better anyhow!!! There are more than 270 falls in an area where cliffs and islets are scattered in a half moon. From the visitors center there are many trails to explore or, if you’re a little tired (lazy??) there is a train taking you to some of the more distant sites.
From the main bus station in Puerto Iguazu, you can catch a bus to the falls for 10 pesos or $2.50 each way ...sure beats the Taxi that wanted 150 pesos ($40)!!
Map of the Falls....as you can see, most of the stuff is on the Argentinian side...
There are two basic circuits: an upper path and a lower path. The lower path leads to the base of the falls, where with the spray, you get pretty much soaked. It is a unique experience as it brings you right up to the Falls and is definitely worth the climb back up.
From the upper path you have panoramic views from the footbridges that give you a birds eye view of going down the Falls, just like the lower path, up close and personal!!
Taking a train inside the park to the "Devils Throat", the largest part of the falls...and no I wasn't lazy, just wanted to experince the train....
Just me on the train.....happy I wasn't walking!!!
Foot path to "Devils Throat"....bring some rain gear!!!
Devils Throat from the top....it's hard to tell from the pic, but we are standing right over the falls!! errie feeling!!
Some of the falls from up top....
Looking down!!!! don't slip!!!
The view from one of the lower paths....luckily my camera is waterproof!!! I was soaked after this shot...
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Here we go....boarding the boat for our "wet" adventure...
The boat gives you a whole different experience of the falls, the driver takes you right to the base where the sound is deafening and there is sooo much spray you can’t even see…was kinda scary at times, but I figured the boat guy knew what he was doing…..I hoped!!
Views from below...in the boat coming up to th falls...
Hang on!!!! we're getting close.....
Coming into the falls....starting to get a little wet!!!
Now I'm drenched!!!! and we're still going further in!!!
Nice pic huh? we are right in the falls now!! can't see a dam thing and the sound is deafening...
Me all "showered" up courtesy of the falls.....
If you do plan on visiting the falls, one piece of advice, get one of those dorky looking plastic ponchos (looks stupid, but functions well) or bring some dry clothing…even though it was sunny and warm out, it still took me 2-3hrs to dry out!!! All in all, a pretty good day at the falls and well worth the trip there….
We leave the next day back to Buenos Aires to catch a flight to Bogota, Colombia…the last destination n South America!!!
This time it’s because of neccessity and not financialy….the airport in Bariloche is closed so no flights in or out…so our options were to bus 7hrs to another city, then fly to Buenos Aires or to just bus the whole way…we decided to bus the whole way…20hrs!!! It actually wasn’t that bad…we left Bariloche bus station around 3:30pm, I was alseep by 7pm and didn’t wake up until late morning the next day!!! The ride was over in a breeze!! The trick?? I had a sleeping pill on the bus and it worked like a charm…
On the hwy leavin Bariloche...ashes blanketed the countryside!!!
The wonders of a sleeping pill.....the only way to travel by bus, the 20hr ride seemed like 6...
We finally made it Buenos Aires around noon the next day and feeling refreshed after a good nights sleep, i grabbed my bags and headed for the taxi stand….Two and half weeks in hostels can take its toll on a person (yeah, I know it sounds wimpy, but I just don’t like no hotwater, no heat and no privacy), so it was time to splurge a little and grab a hotel room for Buenos Aires…nothing fancy, just a decent bed, hot water and maid service…ahhh the simple things we miss!!! As in every big city (Buenos Aires population approx. 15 million), there are usually several barrios (neighbourhoods) that make up the city…In Buenos Aires, some of the popular ones are Palermo, Recoleta, Puerto Madero, Caballito, Retiro and Centro. These are the ones we managed to get to but are certainly not the only ones…it would take weeks to explore them all!!
Our hotel was located in Recoleta which is a downtown residential neighborhood. It is an area of great historical and architectural interest, due, particularly to the Recoleta Cemetery and is also considered one of the more affluent neighborhoods…the cost per square meter/foot of real estate is one of the highest in the city. This barrio’s “claim to fame” is the Recoleta Cemetary…who would of thought?? a cemetary?? but believe me, it’s definitely something to see…Recoleta Cemetery is a city within a city, with streets and alleyways winding throughout the massive, ornate mausoleums. Many famous Argentines (including Eva Peron) are buried here, and it’s fascinating to stroll around and check out the myriad of different architectural styles evident and not to mention the caskets dating back several hundreds of years…
Entrance to the famous Recoleta Cemetary......
Check out this one!!! The whole place is made up of these mausoleams...
In some of these you can even see the caskets of the "dead" people
Although these mausoleams are above ground, inside, there are stairs going down beneath the ground...these are all "family plots" and as people fom the family die, they get stacked up in the "plot"...
Next on the list was Palermo…It is located in the northeast of the city, bordering the barrios of Belgrano to the north, Almagro and Recoleta to the south and is loosley made up of two areas, Palermo Soho and Palmero Hollywood…Soho is a small area of Palermo Viejo around Plaza Serrano (officially Plazoleta Cortázar) on Serrano near Palermo’s south-western edge. It is a newly fashionable area for fashion, design, restaurants, bars and street culture. The atmosphere in many cafés and restaurants strives to be “alternative”, which makes this area of the city especially popular with young, upper-middle class Argentines as well as foreign tourists. The traditional low houses have been adapted into boutiques and bars, creating a bohemian feel….kinda a little like Gastown… sorry, no pics…there really wasn’t too much to take a pic of other than a bunch of cafes and restaurants…and it started to rain, so the tour was cut a little short…
Secondly, Palmero Hollywood, like its neighbor, Palermo Soho, Palermo Hollywood is all about wining and dining as opposed to sightseeing and is the colloquial name for the section of Palermo Viejo (which, for the map lovers, is the half of Palermo that’s bordered by Santa Fe, Córdoba, Dorrego and Coronel Díaz) that lies between Juan B. Justo and Dorrego. There are a lot of radio and television studios in the area – hence the name – but now it’s more known for its nightlife, which includes some of the best restaurants, bar and clubs in the city…I didn’t really get to confirm the ratings on the restaurants and bars cause the restaurants were out of my budget and I’m too old for the night clubs…I guess we’ll just have to take their ratings at face value…sorry, no pics here either (see above).
So two down, a couple more to go…next day, we were off to Puerto Madero, a Yaletownesque area…minus the “port” part…as the name suggests, Puerto Madero was originally a port and oddly enough it was only a functioning port for about fifteen years after it was finished in 1897. It was built to accommodate the cargo ships of the day, but becuase of the increasing use of larger cargo ships, the port quickly became obsolete. A new port built to accommodate the larger ships opened in 1911, and that was it for Puerto Madero. Up until 1999 the port decayed…rusting ships and empty warehouse were abound…then the “let’s turn the dock area into an apartment tower luxury hotel and international corporation office precinct” brigade took over, and the rest is history. Gone are the rusting ships and vacant warehouses, and in their place is an upmarket and clean area that feels like it could be in any city in the world….sounds kinda like Yaletown, doesn’t it?? We spent the day there walking the port and checking out all the restaurants and shops and ended up doing an “all you can eat” parilla (Grill) restaurant for lunch…the pace was packed and all you could smell was grilling meat!! and I love my grilled meats!!! As with any “all you can eat” joint, quantity comes before quality and this place was no different…having said this, the food was still “passable” and we ate enough meat to choke a dinosaur….
An old naval ship turned museum docked at the port....
Funky pedestrian bridge crossing the ports....
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Some of the buildings in the revitalized port...
A couple of the Port's residents gettin some sun...
Just a little sample of the many plates that were had....see that black sausage thing in the middle? blood sausage, it was horrible...
Me leavin the "meat joint"...15lbs heavier!!!
Enough with Puerto Madero!! It was time for San Nicolas, or better known as El Centro which is the city center and home to most of the government buildings and the headquarters of Argentina’s largest companies…. We spent the day walking the streets and touring all the major attractions….Plaza de Mayo, Casa Rosada (Presidential House), various government buildings and churches…and El Obelisko ( a memorial monument centered on one of Buenos Aires busiest streets)…and of course, all the shopping malls located in every city center…
Casa Rosada (red house)...is the presidential palace....hmmm, what an appropriate name!!
El Obelisko....the phallic monument in the middle of the busiest street in Buenos Aires...
One of the Government buildings surrounding Plaza de Mayo....can't remember which one though...
This has got to be the biggest city street I have ever seen....10 lanes for one direction!!!!...also El Obelisko is also on this street...
Pretty much in any large city in South America is pretty much the same….a center square surrounded by government buildings and churches, lots of shopping malls and tons of people milling around…I gotta tell ya, it was starting to get a little monotonous and a little boring…but when you’re in th city, I guess you gotta go….one part of Buenos Aires that wasn’t monotonous was La Boca and Caminito!! A small barrio located in the south east La Boca ,La Boca is the oldest, most colorful, and most authentic neighborhood in Buenos
Aires. The neighborhood was settled and built by Italian immigrants that worked
in the warehouses and meatpacking plants in the area and it’s colorful nature came from the leftover paint used for the boats on the docks…The main street in La Boca, Caminito, is the most famous for its street lined cafes/restaurants and Tango dancers…Tango shows are pretty much in every restaurant and Tango lessons are abound on the streets!!! So if you are a tango fan, this is the place to be in Buenos Aires…
Caminito Street...You probably seen this shot on a few postcards....
A quick tango lesson in the streets....Dam I look good!!! The jacket and hat were borrowed....
So that Buenos Aires in a nutshell…at least my version of it……we’ve been here for quite a few days now and I’m starting to get the itch to move on now…tomorrow, back on a plane (screw the buses!!!) and off to Puerto Iguazu, home of the famous Iguazu Falls…
Back on the bus again!!! It was sooo fun the last time that we had to do it again!!! Actually, this time it is an actual tour we are taking, which consists of several buses and ferries to cross the Andes mountain range into Argentina, the whole trip, approx. 8hrs…the tour follows the route that more than 400 years ago the Huilliches, the natives of Southern Chile, used as a commercial route, and later the Jesuits of Chiloé used to found the missions in the Nahuel Huapi region…the route is set in the zone of the crystal clear Andean Lakes surrounded by the towering mountains and volcanoes of the Andes….everywhere I looked, it was like staring at a postcard!! Luckily the weather was in our favor (clear skies and sunny, but cold!!) which just made everything seemed that much more surreal (apparently it rains about 280 days a year…just like Vancouver!!!)…
Osorno Volcano in the background...They still consider this an active volcano...
Some of the falls in Parque Nacional Vincente Perez in Chile...
After 2 hrs on the bus, we hopped on one of these babies for another 2 hrs...
Killing time on one of the ferries....
Back on the bus after several ferries and heading to Argentina...believe it or not, this "road" is the main Hwy...i would be wary riding my bike on some sections let alone a 50 passenger bus!!
More crazy "Hwy" action...it is really a lot worse than it looks....
We made it!!! this is the Chile/Argentina border.....I was expecting more....
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The street where our hostel was located...notice the "grey" hue from all the ash?
Still sweeping up!!! Ashes covered the whole town...
Town center Bariloche...you can't see it, but ashes are flyin all over the plce from the wind...
Walking through town center...not sure what I'm actually walking to though...
Bariloche done!! We didn’t actually spend too much time in town as we had to hop on the bus again, this time for 20hrs, to get to Buenos Aires!!! The decision to bus to Buenos Aires wasn’t so much financial as it was necessary…there were no flights leavin Bariloche as the airport was closed for repairs (probably cause of the ash!!). So at 3pm, back at the bus terminal gettin ready to go to Buenos Aires…